Remove excess soap, dust and sandpaper grit by washing down your vehicle with fresh water and drying with a lint-free cloth.
This may not be required if your rubbing compound is designed to buff out 2000 grit scratches, but it is highly recommended for the ultimate finish.Īfter wet sanding is complete, it’s time to bring that shine to your vehicle through buffing. You may need to finish the sanding process with 3000 fine-grade sandpaper. Use micro-fine sandpaper, which is less sharp than other sandpaper and less likely to damage the surface. Some sites recommend starting with paper as low as 400 grade, but do not do this! Anything under 1200 is going to cause more damage than it solves. Start with around 1500 grade (1200 minimum, if the surface is acrylic and the scratches are really bad) and work up to 3000 grit.
Once you start sanding, use even, smooth strokes without pressing too hard and using different stroke directions to achieve a “cross hatching” effect. Start by sanding a test area by laying your block flat on the surface and sliding it left and right a few times then moving down and repeating the pattern. Ensure it is a soft block or you risk scratching the paint job. The idea is to gradually eliminate the coarser scratches from the paint, levelling the paint’s surface with finer and finer scratches that can eventually be hidden with polish.įill a bucket with slightly soapy water and let your sandpaper soak in it for up to an hour before you begin, then wrap it around a soft colour sanding block. Then use wet sanding to start smoothing your surface with the aim of removing the tiny bumps and ripples in the paint that may have occurred at the paint spray gun stage, frequently referred to as orange peel.Īs you sand, you’ll be upping the grade of your sandpaper all the way to micro-fine 3000 grit varieties. Once fully cured you can use a tungsten block to carefully eliminate any of the more prominent nibs of paint of dust before wet sanding.
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